Sunflowers Elizabeth Arden

Floral Fruity
Perfumer: David Apel

The Eau De Toilette Sunflowers was launched in 1993 which makes it almost a vintage piece. Sadly, I got my hands on it only recently thanks to my in-laws. I was convinced it is not going to be for me. I can appreciate a fragrance that came out before 1995; however, I rarely get any use out of it. Oldies just seem to be out of date.

Unlike Sunflowers! Yeap, there is a vintage touch to it; however, I find it wearable today. And look at the bottle when you take the cap off! It is a floral fruity scent but not juvenile by any means. The fruits are not dominant. It is rather the floral and woody part that comes through. It is a casual everyday fragrance with a clean soapy quality. There are no aldehydes so I wonder where the soapiness comes from.

There is a Brazilian rosewood that brings slightly spicy nuances to the opening. The scent has a clean powdery character due to the flower of cyclamen and orris root in the heart. Osmanthus brings leather touches. The dry-down is also not bad with woods, oakmoss, musk and amber. What can I say? It is a timeless well-thought masterpiece considering the time and price point.

Oldie but goodie. And cheapie! A clean scent you can lean on day after day.

Joy by Dior Intense Dior

Amber Floral
Perfumer: Francois Demachy

While the original Joy grew on me over time and I quite enjoy the fragrance, Joy Intense did not win my heart.

It is a more vanilla version of the original – richer, sweeter, warmer. It comes across as a vanilla floral perfume reminiscent of Flowerbomb type of scents. Pleasant, easy to wear, there is nothing wrong with it apart from the fact it does not last exactly long. It is not a perfume I am going to be wearing.

The original has a fresh, airy feel to it, ideal for spring and summer but the intense version does not surprise in any way and is not strong enough for cold weather.

The original Joy in warm clothes yet not potent enough to cut through the cold.

L’Ombre Des Merveilles Hermès

Amber Woody
Perfumer: Christine Nagel

Let’s start with the fact that L’Ombre Des Merveilles is a unisex fragrance. The black tea opening is harsh and masculine. After a while, incense and tonka come through. It is especially the tonka bean that balances the scent and gives it a warmer, feminine and spa-like character. Although I drink a cup of black tea every morning, it is not an ingredient I enjoy smelling on myself.

I like the inviting tonka dry-down; but nevertheless, I want to love a fragrance from the begging till the end. L’Ombre Des Merveille is a quality aroma, relatively easy to wear, unique, equally suitable for both sexes but not a sweetheart from head to toe.

This scent could be easily named Black Tea & Tonka d’Hermes. Unisex and unique.

Narciso Rouge Narciso Rodriguez

Floral Woody Musk
Perfumer: Nadege Le Garlantezec, Sonia Constant

A beautiful elegant floral woody musk fragrance. There is a lovely feminine combination of iris and rose at the top. It gives the scent a soft lux powder make-up feel. The mid is more traditional in the name of musk, tuberose and orange blossom. The base is warm and long-wearing with tonka, vanilla cedar, sandalwood and vetiver.

I do not have anything like it in my collection. The red cube matches the scent perfectly. It is powdery, gentle, ultra-feminine and sexy. It is seductive but not in a scandalous way. Narciso Rouge is sensual without trying too hard. It could easily be your fall-winter signature scent.

The best silky make-up smell. A sophisticated and lady-like yet carnal men eater.

This is Her! Vibes of Freedom Zadig & Voltaire

Woody Floral Musk
Perfumer: Sidonie Lancesseur

Zadig & Voltaire has been recently on fire. After their huge success with This is Her! they come with a flanker Vibes of Freedom.

The first impression is: “This is a completely different fragrance”. While the original This is her! is milky and nutty right from the start, the flanker smells like a typical floral fruity with gentle peony, rose and jasmine combined with juicy pear. Until you get to the dry-down! The base is full-on chestnut and whipped cream again. It is interesting to experience such a transition. Thumbs up! That is impressive for a designer scent.

However, as far as my experience goes, it is hard for me to wear This is Her! the original as well as the new one. Ever since I heard that the chestnut together with whipped cream smells like puke, I cannot get it out of my head. If I pay attention, it does actually remind me of vomit. I guess I am done with This is Her! It is okay. This note profile has never been my thing anyway, so I can keep calm and carry on.

A chestnut and whipped cream scent. Apart from the bright opening, smells like the original.

Narciso Eau de Parfum Ambrée Narciso Rodriguez

Amber Floral
Perfumer: Aurelien Guichard

Narciso Ambrée is a tropical musky yellow and white floral. The scent is popular for its frangipani opening. It gives the fragrance a holiday feeling but it’s Narciso Rodriquez, the king of strong modern musk, so of course, there is much more to it. Definitely not your typical coconut summer aroma! The florals change into musk and amber, later to cashmeran and vanilla. It is a solid creamy scent, a superpower when it comes to lasting.

I see similarity with Cassili from Parfums de Marly. However, Ambrée is much more alive, easily wearable, younger and fresher. On top of that, you can get it for a decent price.

Creamy frangipani with modern musk and amber underneath. Easy reach.

Black Opium Illicit Green Yves Saint Laurent

Floral Fruity Gourmand
Perfumer: Nathalie Lorson

Illicit Green is the newest released Black Opium from YSL. There is a new note to the group – fig together with fig leaf. Hence the name “forbidden” green.

The opening and the heart are bright floral-fruity, the scent gets its depth later from bourbon vanilla and coffee. It is similar to the original Black Opium from this line and that is why I think you probably do not need both. But if you run out of the regular Black Opium, why not give the Illicit Green flanker a try. It is slightly creamier, with a twist, not bad at all.

But anyway, it is hard to keep up with all the new releases of Black Opium. They are like fireballs. Keep your finances under control guys.

Black Opium with fig. Creamy, sweet, sensual … great but totally unnecessary?

Black Opium Extreme Yves Saint Laurent

Amber Vanilla

Black Opium Extreme is a 2021 release of Yves Saint Laurent. It is the first Black Opium from the brand that is eventually really about coffee. It looks YSL finally heart out the fragrance community rather than concentrated on pleasing the masses. This extreme version is a fine piece of work.

The perfume opens with coffee and cacao. It is rather a strong espresso than sweetened frape mochaccino frappuccino latte whatever. This espresso is softened by a dose of cacao which works together pretty nicely. The middle is a soft floral with jasmine and orange blossom. Vanilla together with patchouli at the bottom help with lasting.

We have an impressive winter night-time creation here; however, I would still expect a stronger lasting power based on the great potential of the note profile. At the end of the day, I would not be mad to have Black Opium Extreme in my perfume wardrobe.

One espresso, please. With no milk, a bit of sugar. Mysterious yet easy to talk to.

Tresor Midnight Rose Lancome

Floral Woody Musk

The fragrance first hits you with a fruity burst. It is a yummy and sweet, almost kids-like aroma, at first. A little bit later, the scent becomes classier. I would perhaps say it is a classic on its own. Let me explain …

Tresor Midnight Rose is not your distinct niche scent, it smells extremely familiar but that is exactly what I like about it. It is an elegant classic rose for a nighttime occasion. I imagine a pretty young lady going somewhere special. She wants to be taken seriously hence she takes Midnight Rose with her on a journey and she feels fabulous.

Tresor Midnight Rose has been out for a while but is not getting older ladies and gentlemen. It still has its fans who buy it over and over again and also new favourites like me who give it unexpectedly, a lot of new love.

It is timeless elegance in a bottle. Sweet and delicate rose powdered with musk.

Coco Mademoiselle Intense Chanel

Amber Woody
Perfumer: Olivier Polge

Who would not like Coco Mademoiselle? This intense version is indeed more intense and longer-lasting, heavier on patchouli, tonka bean and vanilla. A great version of Coco Mademoiselle for winter – warmer, deeper, vanilla.

But do you need it? If you do not have any Coco Mademoiselle and like the note profile, get this intense version right away; however, if you already own Coco Mademoiselle (the regular version) you do not need this. They are different yet similar enough. I would not justify having both in my collection, it would be a waste.

A stronger more complex Coco Mademoiselle that we already know and adore.