Crystal Saffron: Saucy Screechy Direct

Crystal Saffron by Matiere Premiere
Amber Spicy
Aurelien Guichard

Matiere Premiere is the fragrance house of Master Perfumer Aurélien Guichard. He has got his own rose field in the French region of Grasse, where he was born and raised. The raw material is the most important in his work. He also does not use synthetic colouring whatsoever.

Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world and always has been. Each crocus flower contains 3 red threads, which must be picked manually. To my nose, dry saffron smells similar to goji seeds. The scent is iris-like in its consistency but sweeter. I like the smell of saffron on its own. It brings warmth and comfort and also a hint of sexiness.

Our saffron by Matiere Premiere is brought from Greece. Crystal Saffron is a relatively newly released perfume from 2022. Sadly, here, saffron loses its intimacy and becomes harsher and more masculine in my opinion. It is a strong, massively projecting fragrance. I would say almost offensive for my taste. An oriental cold weather fragrance. When combined with ambroxan and incense, it gives me a headache. I like saffron but in smoother and softer compositions.

Magenta Tanzanite: Who could resist coffee and tobacco?

Armani Privé Magenta Tanzanite by Giorgio Armani
Amber Spicy
Violaine Collas

The sweet spicy gourmand scent of Magenta Tanzanite evokes mornings in the African savanna filled with a tropical grassland, roasted coffee, warm tobacco, spices of cardamom and ginger. It is a melting pot, you smell pieces of an exotic food market, nature in the dead heat of summer, and a lush cafe full of hipsters.

It has the wow effect. The smell is intoxicating, attacks your nostrils and does not let go. Even if you do not like the fragrance, you keep coming back, revisiting the aroma. It is reminiscent of Chinatown by Bond No 9. While Chinatown is perhaps friendlier, more straightforward thus easier to wear, we have to appreciate Magenta Tanzanite for its courage. Although it should evoke a morning in Africa, I suppose it is a perfume more suitable for colder climates. The longevity is not eternal as is the case with Bleu Turquoise but you get solid hours.

The burning question is “Can the price be justified”? For me, not at the moment. I already have my Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford, which falls into the same group. Plus is not that sweet, and that makes it even sexier. But if you are looking for a womanly perfume with sweet coffee and tobacco, go for it. You are going to cherish it and get tons of compliments.

Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise: High and Mighty

Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise by Giorgio Armani
Amber Spicy
Aurelien Guichard

Bleu Turquoise was on my radar for quite a long time. It is spa-like incense woody marine vanilla. Very special and very unique. It smells like a quality oriental summer resort dream.

It is considered to be a summer daytime fragrance; however, the projection and especially the lasting power is incredible. I could still smell it after a shower. It is a mature scent, definitely unisex.

Recently, I have fallen in love with this type of note profile. Aquatic earthy sweet scents. It falls into the same category as Wood Sage & Sea Salt by Jo Malone, but of course, much stronger and more refined.

As much as I love it, I find Bleu Turquoise difficult to pull off. It is not exactly a casual perfume. I also associate it with luxury-style holidays. There is time and place for a perfume like that, otherwise, it can go really wrong. Maybe, men find it easier to wear Bleu Turquoise as it is quite woodsy and incense-like. It is practical to have a decant of fragrances like this. You do not need a full bottle unless you live a bougie life most of the time.