Category Archives: Aromatic

Tabac Man Gravity: Barber Shop for a Man’s Man

Tabac Man Gravity by Maurer & Wirtz
Aromatic
Jacques Huclier

Tabac Man Gravity has many bold notes like rose, aldehydes, geranium, oud, patchouli or tonka bean yet it remains smelling like a typical men’s aftershave. Okay, it has a tiny bit of darkness but because the fragrance does not have the greatest performance, the dark side does not come through as would normally do.

In its defence, it is a true cheapie. If you look at it more as a deodorant or a body mist, you are going to get more out of it. In addition, it smells more barber-shopy and mature than for example Invictus which I wrote about last time. So, if you are looking for a regular cologne and your budget is tight, Tabac Man Gravity is right there.

With that being said, do not expect many compliments. Your colleagues will notice you wear a pleasant fragrance but not pleasant enough to “Write the name down.” “I need to get it right away.”, “My wife would love it.” type of a thing. So, if you are fine with that, you can relax and rewind.

Turquatic by MAC: A Freshly Squeezed Lemonade

Turquatic by MAC
Aromatic

Turquatic is a watery juicy citrus cheapie. Nothing more, nothing less. It is not exactly groundbreaking but at the same time, not too bad for the price.

It is considered a unisex scent; however, it leans more feminine from my point of view. The staying power and projection are okay for what it is – a safe freshie marine. I see similarities with Cool Water by Davidoff or Ocean di Gioia by GA. I like fresh aquatic perfumes but there needs to be some oomph to them. Wood Sage & Sea Salt from Jo Malone is exquisite, for instance.

If I had Turquatic in my collection, I would definitely use it up. It does not completely disappoint, the scent is just flat with no surprise.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt: Your skin but better

Wood Sage & Sea Salt by Jo Malone
Aromatic
Christine Nagel

Jo Malone does cologne concentrated scents with a very natural simplistic character. Wood Sage & Sea Salt is indeed a great example of that.

The cologne smells like a breeze by the sea in a colder climate. I picture a seaside somewhere in the northeast of the US or the North East of England. It has a naturalistic vibe filled with salt, minerals, sand and stone. It is dreamy perfection. I do not recognise much salt but get this musky mellow quality with a hint of sweetness.

It is neither a typical aromatic nor marine aroma. That is how special this is. It feels like your skin but enhanced with the touches of countryside, sea and air. Wood Sage & Sea Salt is a totally inoffensive all-year-round fragrance with no gender. I would even say that it is suitable for people who do not like perfumes at all. The lasting power is decent but bear in mind it is a cologne, and its wearing capacity is naturally weaker than one of an EDT. Definitely full bottle worthy.

Coffee Break Maison Martin Margiela

Aromatic
Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier

A have a 10ml travel size of this eau de toilette and I would not mind having a 100ml bottle. It is lovely.

Coffee Break is from the “memory in a fragrance” line. It was designed to evoke a cold winter day in Stockholm in 2007, cozying up in a cafe with a freshly brewed cappuccino nearby. And it does smell like it. The accords are warm and cozy; it replicates the scent memory perfectly. It smells like biscuits, milk and coffee. The scent is comfortable enough to wear to bed.

The actual note profile is strong on lavender; which interestingly, I do not get. It is not a beast mode fragrance. It is EDT in the end of the day. Not something you would wear to a club to give you an example. However, with its moderate lasting power and projection, it serves its purpose well. If it were stronger, I would somehow find it suffocating.

Coffee Break is worth trying if a nice casual winter scent is something you are hunting down.

Moonlight in Heaven By Kilian

Aromatic
Perfumer: Calice Becker

I set my expectations high because I do like this note profile – grapefruit, pink pepper, mango, coconut, rice, vetiver and tonka bean. Yes, it is a sweet cozy creamy freshie; nevertheless, I do not get the famous deserted island vibes. It smells like a packed city in the summer-time. I picture a bar in Brasil with a pina colada on the table. It could also easily be a coconut body scent from Body Shop or Bath and Body Works. It is not bad but it does not live up to its price. Longevity and sillage are not killing it either.

Moonlight in Heaven is a sweet cocktail aroma. A fresh scent with a twist which has been here before. 30/100

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Sample Set

MFK Sample Set

Amyris Femme

Woody Floral

Amyris Femme is my first experience with the own maison of Mr. Francis Kurkdjian. In my opinion, it is quite a linear scent. What you sniff at the beginning is what you get at the end. It is true that the citrus notes fade away, but just a little bit. It must be the courtesy of the note amyris (citrus like smelling) in the middle of the composition.

I appreciate it. The scent is full of joy, yet feminine and sophisticated. You can wear Amyris for a job interview. You give an impression that you are serious about the job but at the same time, you have a creative personality and kind mind. If you want some comparisons, I can give you My Way Armani, Coco Mademoiselle Chanel, Darcy Parfums De Marly. If I have to choose one , I pick Amyris. It is woodier than My Way, more unique than Coco at this point, and more playful than Darcy.

Although the price is “extreme”, it is the type of aroma you want to smell again and again. Amyris Femme is in my DNA. There is no ONE note I do not like. I especially enjoy the trio of orange, iris and vetiver.

Amyris is a playful elegance. When you want a serious scent but with an edge. 90/100

Aqua Universalis

Aromatic

Aqua Universalis is a unisex caress. I am blown away. It is an extremely pleasant and comfortable scent for a man and woman. It is citrus but not overly aggressive, even during the opening.

There is much more to it yet it is done in a very soft and intimate way. It is beautiful and airy lily of the valley and lemon together with musk and woodsy notes. Aqua Universalis can be compared to well known Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana or the 90’s classic O D’Azur by Lancôme; however, Aqua is more refined and smooth. Ideal for hotter climates all year round. Great for work, lunch with friends, family picnic etc.

It is the final touch before you leave the house. It is a gentle stroke you get from your significant other. 100/100

Baccarat Rouge 540

Amber Floral

I can honestly say that I have not smelled anything like that before. Baccarat Rouge 540 has an undoubtedly unique aroma. It is a masterpiece combination of floral and wood, natural and artificial.

It is saffron, jasmine and artificially made animal ambergris that make the scent sexy and attractive. Fresh resin adds the sweetness and warmth to it. The longevity is eternal – it surpasses Creed and Kilian. I sprayed this in a room and I could not get rid of Baccarat for a month. I am not kidding! The projection is strong, you are going to leave a powerful trail behind. Although it has been advertised as a signature scent, I think it is TOO MUCH for everyday. Too loud, too exclusive, too expensive.

It is an occasion scent when you want to be seen. Is it your day? Do you have a birthday, wedding, promotion party? Then go for Baccarat Rouge 540 and you are going to shine.

Inviting woody amber. Olfactory pleasure when you are starring the show. 90/100

Oud Silk Mood

Woody Floral

Oud Silk Mood is my first experience with oud. It is a rare Middle-Eastern wood, recreated synthetically in most cases; used especially in male fragrances. I was quite skeptical about it, and my gut feeling was right.

The actual perfume Oud Silk Mood reminds me off Narciso Rodriguez for Him which I used to wear in my twenties. It is maybe shocking for some of you that I wore a male scent when I barely came off age; however, I liked it back then and I still think Narciso Rodriquez is magnificent. And even better! In a way, I find Narciso for Him more straight forward and less cloying than this. Oud Silk Mood sits quite dark and heavy on my skin – headache inducing.

Thinking of the unisex character of this aroma, I wound not fancy Oud Silk Mood on a man either. I am sorry, but this will be a pass for me.

One must like oud and strong woodsy scents to have a passion for Oud Silk Mood. 30/100