Category Archives: Citrus

Citrus fruit

Sakura Eau de Parfum: For Cherry Blossom Lunatics

Sakura Eau de Parfum Acqua di Parma
Citrus

Sakura is a fresh citrus floral. You get the most beautiful zesty cherry blossom. The smell is elevated and refined. Although it is a fresh floral, it does not smell overly young or playful whatsoever.

It is one of the best cherry blossom scents I know but the performance is rather bad. The projection is weak and the scent sits very close to the skin. Sakura does not live up to the Eau de Parfum expectations in my opinion. There is no solid base to secure the fragrance lasting. The price is not terrible, so if you love the aroma, you can buy a big bottle and spray extensively like with a body mist.

Lemon Island Atelier Cologne

Citrus

Lemon Island is a new addition to the AC’s citrus family. The perfume is high on raw goods of natural origin.

Only three notes are listed: lemon, jasmine and vanilla. The lemon note is actually very pleasant. It does not feel like someone squeezed lemon in your face. The lemony vibe feels green, more like a blade of wet lemongrass. I do like the opening. Later on, the floral side of the fragrance comes through, and the composition is finished with warmer and sweeter tones of vanilla.

It is easy to wear, nice, balanced. Lemon Island definitely feels tropical without going overboard. There is almost “pina colada” touch to it. It feels like a bar somewhere in Maledives. You are slowly sipping a cocktail and enjoying the tranquil stunning view of the ocean. It is a grown-up aroma, not your typical fruity Escada or Beyonce.

The only issue I find is that it does not last. You get about two hours out of it. The projection is intimate too; and, considering the price tag, it is not okay. I wish it was stronger.

Lemon Island is your tropical fresh citrus but upgraded with class and elegance.

Perfume Palette Atelier Cologne

Atelier Cologne Paris was launched in 2009 by a French-Italian married couple. They are famous for their unisex colognes absolue – highly concentrated colognes based around citrus notes. They are inspired by the romanticism of their exotic travels around the world. Their lasting power is comparable with eau de parfum. I personally find them good for layering.

Pacific Lime

Citrus
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

The main note is of course sour lime which stays strong the entire time. If you love lime, this cologne is for you. I smell also coconut and mint which evoke holiday; however, the tropical island feel fades away quickly. It is what it is. Lime! It can be a little bit juvenile to wear solely lime as your fragrance of the day. I suggest to layer it with Musc Impérial or Vanille Insensée. 60/100

Iris Rebelle

Floral
Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger

It is a modern and unique take on iris. The cologne smells certainly very clean and fresh. There is also something relaxing about it. I do not smell much of bergamot but rather iris, lavender and wood. I do like iris hence I had high expectations about Rebelle. It is not bad; nevertheless, I still prefer my Infusion d’Iris by Prada. I find Infusion less sharp (better blend) and totally unisex. 40/100

Pomélo Paradis

Citrus Aromatic
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

Interestingly, there is no pomelo in the mixture but grapefruit and mandarin instead. Grapefruit has a bitter and moist smell which comes out beautifully in a fragrance. I prefer this one to Pacific Lime. It is a more complex better balanced cologne in my opinion. The vibes are again indeed very young so it is a good idea to layer Pomélo Paradis with Musc Impérial or Vanille Insensée. 70/100

Orange Sanguine

Citrus
Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger

Right from the start, it smells like orange juice. You will appreciate mesmerizing blood orange at the top. Later, it settles sweet, spicy and woody. It is a nice twist to the citrus top. It almost feels gourmand. Orange Sanguine is one of my favorite. I am a fan of an orange smell and I am very pleased with the direction this cologne took on. 90/100

Vanille Insensée

Woody
Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger

This is again a very unique smell. It is long lasting. This vanille is not sweet at all. It has a rather woody and smoky character. Nonetheless, it may be dark to wear on its own. I suggest to layer it with some of the brighter or floral options from Atelier Cologne. It is a definitely interesting choice and a solid base fragrance. 50/100

Oolang Infini

Woody Aromatic
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

Its projection is strong and clean; however does not last as long as it seems from the beginning. The cologne does smell like a cup of tea. I understand that the perfume community has very specific needs so the clients are looking for something new and unusual; but personally, I do not want to smell like tea. Yeah, I am not fond of Oolang Infini that much. 10/100

Clémentine California

Citrus Aromatic
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

Clémentine California is the flagship so far. You get a lot of clementine with woodsy and green base. It is the first sophisticated combo from the citrus range that does not need any layering. It is very fine on its own. It smells like a juicy clementine in a forest. Something about it is relaxing, almost therapeutically. I am considering buying a bottle. It is alluring. 90/100

Cédre Atlas

Woody
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

Citrus with woods. Cédre Atlas is a simple masculine freshie. Very pleasant though. Sometimes you just want to smell good and to wow everybody is not the goal. A nice addition to a starter kit. A suitable present for any man who likes to smell clean and fresh. Nothing more, nothing less. Despite being marketed as unisex, I think Cédre Atlas will come across too masculine for many women I know. 60/100

Musc Impérial

Woody Floral Musk
Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

A sexy cologne. With bergamot, sage, leather and lavender leaning more masculine. It is not soft white musk used in Narciso Rodriguez, for example. A nice basic night time scent. Can serve well as a base layer for AC citrus colognes. 50/100

Rose Anonyme

Amber Floral
Perfumer: Jérome Epinette

This is predominantly rose with oud. I have not find much passion for oud so far and speaking of rose, I already have my rosy favorites from other brands. I am afraid Rose Anonyme is a pass for me. Nevertheless, I believe, it is a unisex edgy option for fragrance lovers who are suckers for oud. Rose is a nice addition to it. 30/100

Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma

Photo: magmaprofumi.com

Acqua di Parma is a traditionally composed cologne with citrusy top and patchouli as its base. It smells exactly how you imagine a cologne smelled in the fifties. Clean, unisex and bold! A sophisticated smell, great for work especially for men.

For those who like fresh scents but find Acqua di Parma too boring, maybe add a spray of more exciting fragrance and it will still work. It is buildable and can become playful.

Acqua di Parma has its loyal fan base and can catch the eye of a young spirit even in 2020. 50/100

 

I Love Love Moschino

I Love Love was one of my first scents ever. I remember I bought it in Malta when I was 18 years old. It’s definitely an optimistic summer scent. It reminds me of a carefree time, beach, socializing with no particular purpose. Just the incredible lightness of being with no worries and prejudice.

moslovw_bedt__8

Photo: basenotes.net

I Love Love is fruity and sour, it contains orange, lemon, redcurrant, rose, cinnamon, sugar and lily of the valley, to name a few. It’s like the sun, cheers you up no matter what. Your mood goes up the barometer immensely and out of nowhere. I can’t really picture this fragrance offending anyone. It’s simply the beautiful friend next door who is always there when you need her.

This perfume is a joy. Uncontrollable and omnipresent. 90/100

Virgin Island Water Creed

The opening of this perfume is beautiful: citrus, sweetness and exotic coconut. The feeling you get from Virgin Island Water is quite astonishing: fresh, milky, it feels like being on a wonderful deserted island with only sand, palm trees and the never ending sea.

Photo: basenotes.net

Photo: basenotes.net

After a few hours, the perfume changes its tone a little bit, and interestingly, you will smell ginger. In fact, is there any ginger in the composition? Surprise! Yes, there is. However, why it is that noticeable, beating even jasmine is unknown to me.

The base is with white rum, sugarcane and musk. The scent does get sweeter at the end but never gets heavy. Rather, it somehow dissapears to nowhere instead of getting hot and heavy. This can be either positive or negative. A soft dry down is rather appreciated during the summer, on the other hand, the weak ending of the fragrance can be considered as a weakness reflecting poor longevity and power. So it is what you make it in your head.

As far as the unisex nature of this fragrance is concerned, I would lean towards the female side. In fact, quite strongly! The perfume doesn’t convey much of masculinity in any way.

Overall, because of its up-lifting, refreshing and dreamy fashion, the fragrance is ideal for summer and a vacation. It’s the one you can always take on vacation with you and have a great time, and spray it back home  to evoke the many fantastic memories. 70/100

 

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia Bianca Guerlain

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca GuerlainAqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia Bianca is a strong white floral. Neroli is a dominant feature of this floral garden. I appreciate it´s natural, fresh floral smell; nothing smells synthetic out here. Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia Bianca reminds me of White Patchouli by Tom Ford or Infusion D’Iris by Prada. A very very nice composition for an elegant lady. Lasting power is solid.

A recognizable white floral; beautifully develops over time during the day. 80/100